Hayati Pro Max 6000 Not Working? 10 Problems & Easy Fixes

Khan Afridi

The Hayati Pro Max 6000 (also sold as Hayati Pro Max+ / Pro Max Plus 6000) is a reusable prefilled pod kit designed to replace banned disposables in the UK. Instead of throwing away an entire bar, you recharge one device and swap prefilled pods that can deliver up to 6000 puffs each.

With an 850mAh rechargeable battery, 2ml + 10ml pod design, mesh coil, 20mg nic salt, and smart battery display, it’s a solid everyday device until something goes wrong.

If your Hayati Pro Max 6000 is not working, not hitting, tasting burnt, leaking, or flashing LEDs, this guide walks you through 10 common problems and simple fixes. We’ll also show you when it’s time to change the pod and when it’s safer to replace the device completely.

Understanding Your Hayati Pro Max 6000: How It Actually Works

Before we jump into troubleshooting, it helps to understand the design and components of the Hayati Pro Max+ 6000.

Most official and retailer listings describe it as:

  • A reusable “big puff” pod kit (not a disposable bar)

  • A 2ml pod + 10ml auto-refill cartridge (12ml total) to stay TPD-compliant while still delivering up to 6000 puffs

  • Pre-filled with 20mg nic salt e-liquid for a smooth throat hit

  • Powered by an 850mAh rechargeable battery with USB-C fast charging

  • Equipped with a mesh coil and draw-activated firing

  • Some versions have a smart battery display screen showing charge level in real time

In very simple terms:

  • The battery powers the mesh coil

  • The mesh coil heats the nic salt e-liquid from the 2ml chamber, which is automatically topped up from the 10ml refill container

  • You inhale through the mouthpiece, which triggers a pressure/airflow sensor and produces vapour

If one of those areas – battery, pod/coil, e-liquid supply or airflow/sensor – has a problem, the device will feel like it’s “not working”.

1. Device Not Firing (No Vapour on Inhale)

This is the classic “Hayati Pro Max 6000 not hitting” problem: you inhale but nothing comes out, or the LED blinks briefly and then stops.

Common Causes

  • Flat battery (no power to heat the coil)

  • Pod not fully seated in the device

  • Empty pod or dead coil

  • Airflow sensor blocked by dust, lint or condensation

  • Internal chip or battery fault (end of device life)

Step-by-Step Fixes

1. Check the Pod

  • Look at the 2ml visible tank – is there still e-liquid inside?

  • Inspect the pod for cracks, leaking or deformation.

  • Smell the mouthpiece – a strong burnt smell suggests the coil is done.

2. Reinsert the Pod

  • Gently pull the pod out of the device.

  • Wipe the gold contacts and the base with a dry tissue.

  • Reinsert the pod and push it down until it feels firm and flush with the top of the device.

Poor contact between the pod and device is a common cause of no vapour / pod not detected.

3. Recharge the Battery

  • Plug a USB-C cable into the base or side port.

  • Use a reliable wall adapter (1–2A), not just a random TV or laptop USB.

  • Check the LED or smart display – you should see a battery icon or charging animation.

Leave it on charge until at least 50–100%.

4. Clear the Airflow

  • Look at the mouthpiece and side airflow holes.

  • Remove any visible fluff or debris with a tissue.

  • Avoid poking sharp objects inside – you don’t want to damage the sensor or chimney.

5. Try a New Pod

If you have a fresh Hayati Pro Max 6000 pod:

  • Insert it into the device

  • Take a few gentle puffs

If the new pod works fine, the previous one was likely dead or burnt.

When to Replace the Device

If you have tried:

  • A fully charged battery

  • A cleaned port and pod contacts

  • A brand-new pod

…and you still get no vapour at all and no proper LED/screen response, the device has probably reached end of life (battery or board failure). At that point, it’s safer and simpler to replace the device.

2. Hayati Pro Max 6000 Not Charging

Another common search query is “Hayati 6000 not charging” or “Hayati Pro Max+ dead” even when plugged in.

Common Causes

  • Faulty or low-quality USB-C cable

  • Old or weak power adapter

  • Dust, lint or e-liquid inside the charging port

  • Very low / over-discharged battery

  • Internal battery wear after months of heavy use

Step-by-Step Fixes

1. Check the Charging Cable & Adapter

  • Switch to a different USB-C cable that you know works with another device.

  • Use a proper wall plug instead of a TV, console, or very weak USB hub.

2. Clean the Charging Port

  • Use a dry cotton bud to gently clean the inside of the charging port.

  • Remove any fluff, dust, or sticky residue.

  • Never use water or metal tools.

3. Confirm LED Charging Signal

  • When you plug it in, look for:

    • A battery icon on the smart display, or

    • A solid/blinking LED confirming it’s charging

If you see no signal at all, try the next steps.

4. Try a Different Power Source

  • Use another wall socket and a different adapter.

  • Avoid very old phone chargers that output extremely low current.

5. Let the Device Cool Down

  • If the device feels hot, unplug it immediately.

  • Place it on a non-flammable surface and allow it to cool fully before trying again.

When to Replace the Device

If the Hayati Pro Max 6000 never shows a charging icon, never powers on, and you’ve confirmed the cables and plugs are fine, the battery or board is likely faulty. At this point, replacing the device is normally the safest option.

3. Weak Vapour or Muted Flavour

Sometimes your Hayati Pro Max 6000 still fires, but it feels weak, airy, or flavourless, even though it’s “working”.

Common Causes

  • Low battery – less power = weaker coil performance

  • Pod nearing end of life – coil and cotton worn down

  • Pod almost empty – not enough liquid around the coil

  • Chain vaping causing temporary overheating and flavour drop

  • Partially blocked airflow

  • Inhaling either too softly or too aggressively

Step-by-Step Fixes

1. Check Pod Liquid Levels

  • Look at the 2ml chamber – if it’s nearly dry, the pod is almost finished.

  • If your design lets you see the 10ml refill container, check that too.

2. Replace Worn-Out Pod

  • If you’ve been using the same pod for days and flavour is dull, it’s probably time for a new Hayati Pro Max 6000 pod.

  • Fresh pods normally give a stronger, cleaner taste.

3. Slow Down Puffing

  • Switch from heavy chain vaping to slower, spaced-out puffs.

  • Leave 3–5 seconds between each puff to allow the mesh coil and wick to re-saturate.

4. Recharge the Battery

  • Weak vapour + low battery indicator = obvious connection.

  • Bring the battery back to a high charge and compare the performance.

5. Clear the Airflow

  • Clean the mouthpiece and airflow holes using a dry tissue.

  • Condensation build-up can make vapour feel thinner and flavour less pronounced.

When to Replace the Pod

If vapour remains weak and flavourless despite:

  • A fully charged battery,

  • Clean airflow, and

  • Slower puffing,

…then the pod has likely reached its natural life. Swap it for a fresh pod to restore performance.

4. Burnt or Harsh Taste

Few things are as unpleasant as a suddenly burnt Hayati Pro Max 6000. This is usually a coil issue, not a battery one.

Common Causes

  • The pod is almost or completely out of e-liquid

  • Coil is burnt out after a long period of use

  • Constant chain vaping with no pause

  • Extremely long or hard inhales that drain the wick too quickly

  • Using the same pod far past its realistic puff life

Step-by-Step Fixes

1. Check E-Liquid Levels

  • If the 2ml chamber looks dry or very low, stop vaping immediately.

  • Trying to squeeze “just a few more puffs” from an almost empty pod is how coils get burnt.

2. Replace Burnt Pods

  • Once the cotton in a mesh coil is burnt, the burnt taste will not go away.

  • Don’t try to fix a burnt pod; simply replace it.

3. Slow Down Puffing on the New Pod

  • Take shorter, moderate puffs.

  • Give the pod a few seconds between pulls to re-wick properly.

4. Switch Flavours Correctly (If Using Dual-Flavour Pods)

  • If your pod has two flavours, one side might be burned while the other still has life.

  • Switching to the other side may feel better, but if both sides taste burnt, the coil is finished.

5. Recharge the Device

  • Low voltage can sometimes feel harsher.

  • A fully charged battery gives smoother, more stable output.

When to Replace the Pod

Any persistent burnt, smoky or harsh taste – even after a couple of test puffs – means the coil is cooked. The only real solution is a new Hayati Pro Max 6000 pod.

5. Leaking or Gurgling

A little condensation is normal. Real leaking or constant gurgling is not.

Common Causes

  • Condensation build-up in the chimney or mouthpiece

  • Over-inhaling, pulling more liquid into the coil than it can vaporise

  • Pressure changes (e.g. hot car, tight pocket, plane cabin)

  • Pod damaged or not sealed properly

Step-by-Step Fixes

1. Clean the Device

  • Remove the pod and wipe:

    • The pod base and sides

    • The pod bay and contacts

    • Around the mouthpiece and, if present, display area

Use a dry tissue – no water or cleaning sprays.

2. Insert Pod Securely

  • Check the pod is aligned correctly with the device.

  • Push it in firmly until you feel a positive click or snug fit.

3. Adjust Your Puffing Technique

  • Take gentle, steady draws rather than hard, sharp pulls.

  • Hard pulls can flood the coil, leading to gurgling and spitback.

4. Store Device Upright

  • When not in use, try to keep your Hayati standing upright, especially in warm environments like cars.

  • Laying it flat in heat can encourage seepage.

5. Replace the Pod

If the same pod continues to leak heavily or gurgle constantly after cleaning and gentler use, it’s likely a pod seal issue. Swap it for a new pod.

When to Worry

  • E-liquid is visibly inside the charging port or under the screen

  • The device feels wet internally, not just in the pod bay

In those cases, it may be safer to retire that device rather than risk ongoing electrical damage.

6. Pod Not Detected / LED Error Flashes

If your Hayati Pro Max 6000 is flashing, but not hitting, it’s typically a status/error signal.

What LED / Error Flashes Usually Mean

Exact blink patterns vary by model, but they usually indicate:

  • No pod detected / bad contact

  • Short circuit / over-current

  • Puff timer limit reached

  • Low battery

Common Causes

  • Pod not fully clicked in

  • Wet, dirty, or oxidised contacts

  • Wrong pod type / faulty pod

  • Flooded coil behaving like a short

  • Internal chip fault

Step-by-Step Fixes

1. Remove & Inspect the Pod

  • Check for cracks, swelling, leaking or physical damage.

  • Make sure all stickers or transport seals have been removed.

2. Dry & Clean the Contacts

  • Wipe the gold pins on the pod and inside the device with a dry tissue.

  • Remove any condensation or e-liquid.

3. Reseat the Pod Until It Clicks

  • Insert the pod again and push down until it sits perfectly flush.

  • Slight misalignment is enough to cause pod detection errors.

4. Clear the Airflow & Deflood the Pod

  • If you hear gurgling, gently flick the pod downwards (away from you) into a tissue.

  • You can also blow softly through the mouthpiece to push excess liquid out.

5. Recharge the Battery

  • Some devices flash when the battery is too low to fire.

  • Bring it back up to a decent charge and test again.

6. Try a Fresh Pod

  • If the error persists with one pod, test with a brand-new pod.

  • If the new pod works normally, discard the old one.

When to Replace the Device

If every pod you try produces flash codes and no vapour, even with a full battery and clean contacts, the internal chip is likely damaged. At that point, the only realistic fix is a new device.

7. Auto-Firing or Device Heating Up (Safety First)

Auto-firing – when your Hayati activates without you inhaling – is a serious safety issue and must be treated carefully.

Common Causes

  • Stuck or over-sensitive auto-draw sensor

  • E-liquid inside the body causing a partial short

  • Internal damage from drops, impact, or water

Step-by-Step Fixes

1. Remove the Pod Immediately

  • Pull the pod out right away to cut off liquid supply and break the circuit to the coil.

2. Wipe and Inspect the Device

  • Check inside the pod bay, around the display and charging port for e-liquid.

  • Carefully dry everything you can reach with a tissue.

3. Allow the Device to Cool Down

  • Place the device on a non-flammable surface (e.g. ceramic plate, metal tray).

  • Let it cool fully; do not charge it during this period.

4. Insert a Fresh Pod (Optional Test)

  • Once completely cool and dry, you may test it with a new pod.

  • Take a gentle puff and see if the device only fires when you inhale.

5. If Problem Persists Without Pod → Replace the Device

  • If it still tries to fire or gets hot even with no pod inserted, do not continue using it and do not charge it.

  • Safest action: dispose of the device responsibly and replace it.

8. Airflow Too Tight or Too Loose

Airflow is a big part of how your vape feels. Sometimes users report:

  • “My Hayati Pro Max 6000 draw is too tight

  • “Airflow suddenly feels too open or airy”

Common Causes

  • Condensation or debris partially blocking the airflow

  • Micro-differences between pods (tolerances)

  • User expectations coming from a different type of device (very tight or very open)

Step-by-Step Fixes

1. Check for Blockages

  • Inspect the airflow slots, mouthpiece and chimney.

  • Wipe away any visible build-up with a dry tissue.

2. Reinsert the Pod

  • Sometimes the pod isn’t perfectly aligned and can alter the airflow path.

  • Remove and reinstall; make sure it’s straight and fully seated.

3. Clear Condensation

  • Blow gently through the mouthpiece into a tissue.

  • This can remove thin layers of condensation that make the draw feel odd.

4. Adjust Puffing Technique

  • For tight pods, use slower, longer draw rather than sharp pulls.

  • For looser pods, try shorter, more controlled puffs.

5. Try a Fresh Pod

  • If one pod feels off from day one, test another pod of the same flavour.

  • Minor airflow variation can happen between individual pods.

When to Replace the Device

If you’ve tried several pods and the airflow still feels randomly restricted or inconsistent, the internal airflow path may be damaged. At that point, moving to a new Hayati device or a different pod system is usually best.

9. Battery Draining Faster Than Expected

Over time, you might feel like the Hayati Pro Max 6000 battery doesn’t last like it used to.

Common Causes

  • Heavier, more frequent use

  • Longer puffs over time

  • Battery ageing after months of daily charging cycles

  • Using the device in very cold or very hot climates

  • Faulty pod drawing more power than normal

Step-by-Step Fixes

1. Moderate Your Vaping Style

  • Reduce constant chain vaping.

  • Try shorter puffs or fewer puffs per session.

2. Fully Charge Before Use

  • Avoid endless “sip charging” (small top-ups).

  • Let the device fully charge so the battery management works efficiently.

3. Use Normal Power Mode (If Applicable)

  • If your variant has any boost / performance modes, stick to the default for better battery life.

4. Keep the Device at Room Temperature

  • Store and use it away from extreme heat or cold (hot cars, freezing garages, etc.).

5. Check for Pod Issues

  • If one specific pod makes the device unusually warm or glitchy, replace that pod – excessive current draw can reduce runtime.

6. Replace the Device if Battery Is Worn Out

  • After many months of use, it’s normal for lithium batteries to lose capacity.

  • If your Hayati barely lasts a few hours of light use even after a full charge with fresh pods, the battery is likely worn down and it’s time for a new kit.

10. Flavour Tastes Mixed After Switching (Dual-Flavour Pods)

If you use dual-flavour / twist-to-switch Hayati pods, you might notice flavour overlap when switching.

Common Causes

  • Both flavours share one mesh coil and one chimney

  • The wick holds a bit of the previous flavour

  • Rapid switching back and forth between flavours

Step-by-Step Fixes

1. Fully Twist the Mouthpiece / Selector

  • Make sure the flavour selector is turned all the way to one side.

  • If it sits in the middle, you might be pulling a mix of both sides.

2. Take a Few Puffs After Switching

  • Expect 3–6 puffs before the new flavour fully takes over.

  • This is normal – the wick needs time to soak in the new liquid.

3. Clear the Airflow

  • Blow gently through the mouthpiece to help clear out leftover vapour from the previous flavour.

4. Use Fresh Pods for Cleaner Flavour

  • If flavours always taste muddy, mixed or stale, the coil and wick may be saturated with old residue.

  • A new pod will give you a much cleaner flavour profile.

5. Manage Expectations

  • Dual-flavour systems always have a small amount of crossover – that’s just the reality of sharing one coil and chimney.

When to Replace the Pod

If the flavour remains mixed, dull or slightly burnt no matter what you do, the pod has reached its flavour limit. Swapping to a fresh Hayati 6K pod is the simplest fix.

Final Tips

To reduce the chance of your Hayati Pro Max 6000 “not working” again:

  • Keep it charged – avoid running the battery completely flat repeatedly

  • Use gentle, steady puffs – protect the mesh coil & wick

  • Don’t vape when e-liquid is obviously low

  • Clean the mouthpiece, contacts and airflow slots regularly

  • Store upright, at room temperature, away from direct heat and freezing cold

  • Replace pods at the first sign of persistent burnt taste or severe leaking

When looked after properly, the Hayati Pro Max 6000 / Pro Max+ 6000 is a convenient, long-lasting, big-puff pod kit that easily outperforms many disposable vapes in both value and sustainability.

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